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Aquamarine Overview

Aquamarines come from the same mineral, Beryl, that makes up emeralds. Emeralds are known for their deep green color whereas aquamarines are noted for their crisp blue to green-blue color

The biggest appeal of aquamarines is their electric blue or greenish blue color which is due to the presence of iron in the mineral beryl.

Aquamarine scores 8 out of 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it one of the hardest gemstones in the world. It is suitable for every type of jewelry, particularly engagement rings because it is not only tough but also available in larger sizes compared to other gemstones.

Aquamarine is said to embody the healing attributes of sea and it is generally associated with transformation, rebirth, loyalty and truth.

The history of aquamarines is also very rich just like that of emeralds. The Roman philosopher Pliny once wrote metaphorically that aquamarines came from mermaid treasures, and would bring about luck and charm. It is also said that it was the Roman fishermen who named this gemstone as aqua (water) marina (of the sea).

The popularity of aquamarine has increased with the passage of time primarily due to its bright and vibrant blue color, large size, and international appeal. It is especially popular in two of the world's largest markets - the United States and China.

It has become a popular choice for engagement rings for those looking to add a splash of brilliant color but want it lighter than a sapphire. Availability in large sizes is also a key reason towards the popularity of aquamarine. Aquamarines are easier to cut as compared to other gemstones and as such a much larger portion of the stone is preserved leading to larger finished product. Consequently, prices for such gems are also irresistible.

Aquamarine Quality and Pricing Factors

The color intensity, clarity, and cut of an aquamarine are the three key characteristics that determine its quality. The price of an aquamarine, like that of any other gemstone, is directly proportional to its quality. The carat weight of an aquamarine is also an important element in determining its price These factors are described in detail hereunder which form the basis for a letter grade system (A-AAAA) generally used to grade overall quality of a color gemstone.

Color 

The color of an aquamarine is the most important quality criterion and it determines the price of the gemstone. The most desirable color is anywhere between green-blue and pure blue. The color should be well-distributed with a high saturation level and the stone must be transparent.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal and external imperfections in a gemstone. Unlike diamonds, color gemstones do not have any universal clarity grading system. Generally, aquamarine is a much clearer gemstone when compared to other gemstones and as such clear aquamarines are easy to find with jewelers of repute. In the wholesale trade, we evaluate the clarity of a aquamarine in the following manner.

  1. Holding the gemstone face up 12 inches from the eye
  2. Tilting it in various directions to visually inspect for any visible inclusions
  3. Only imperfections viewable on the crown (top part of the gemstone) are inspected and not on the pavilion (back side)

Cut / Transparency

Transparency refers to the attribute of a gemstone to let the light pass through. The more light passes through, the more transparent the stone. Everyone loves transparent gems because the colors appear vivid. The only problem with higher transparency is that the flaws in the gemstone are more visible as compared to less transparent stone.

The rough of aquamarine is cut in a way to obtain the desired color saturation of the aquamarine since the price is primarily dependent on the color. Lighter material is cut deeper to allow the gem to hold more light and increase saturation, whereas darker material is cut shallower to allow more light to pass through the stone.

Cutting a gemstone requires a high degree of skill which is mastered with years of practice and patience.

Carat / Measurements

Carat (ct) is the primary unit to measure the weight of a gemstone. One carat equals one-fifth of a gram or one gram has five carats. The deep or the shallow cut of an aquamarine will have a bearing on its apparent size thereby making it important to consider other measurements viz. length and width which are expressed in millimeters. A 7x5mm Oval can weigh 0.80cts or 1.5cts, depending on its depth and cutting style.

Origin

Aquamarines are mined in various locations around the world such as Brazil, Nigeria, Madagascar, Zambia, Pakistan, and Mozambique. High quality gemstones along with the low quality ones are found in all the locations. However, the mines in Brazil generally have higher quality deposits.

Brazilian aquamarines, especially those from Minas Gerais, are particularly sought-after for their excellent transparency and incredible size. The premium grows as the quality and size/weight of a gemstone increases. Low quality aquamarines will not receive a premium even if they are mined from a rare and prestigious origin.

For a general buyer the origin of an aquamarine should not factor into the decision making process because it is more important to find the quality of the gemstone you want than its origin.

Treatment

The vivid rich color of an aquamarine is typically achieved by heating the gemstone at extremely high temperatures. This heating can naturally occur underground or it can be done artificially, There is however no way at present to determine whether an aquamarine is heated naturally or with a lapidary. Therefore, all aquamarine must be considered heat treated.

Overall Grading Value (AAAAA - A)

A letter grading system is used by several local jewelers to educate their consumers about the quality. We've given here a full description of grading system used commonly and by us

Grading % of All Aquamarine Description
AAAA Top 1% Fine quality gems that are typically found at very high end boutiques. They have rich color, slightly included to eye clean clarity and tend to exhibit nice sparkle. These gems tend to appreciate the most in value over time due to rarity and high demand.  
AAA (Heirloom) Top 10% High quality gems that are typically found in high end stores such as on 5th Avenue. They have vivid to medium color and from slightly included to very slightly included eye clarity.
AA (Excellent) Top 25% These gems typically have medium to light color and moderate to slightly included eye clarity. They are usually found at medium to high end jewelers.
Grading

AAAA

% of All Aquamarine

Top 1%

Description:

Fine quality gems that are typically found at very high end boutiques. They have rich color, slightly included to eye clean clarity and tend to exhibit nice sparkle. These gems tend to appreciate the most in value over time due to rarity and high demand.

Grading

AAA (Heirloom)

% of All Aquamarine

Top 10%

Description:

High quality gems that are typically found in high end stores such as on 5th Avenue. They have vivid to medium color and from slightly included to very slightly included eye clarity.

Grade

AA (Excellent)

% of All Aquamarine

Top 25%

Description:

These gems typically have medium to light color and moderate to slightly included eye clarity. They are usually found at medium to high end jewelers.

Care Instructions

Aquamarine is a fairly hard gemstone and doesn’t require much care. But here are a few things that you can do to keep your aquamarine jewelry looking new.

  1. Avoid your jewelry getting in contact with make-up, chemicals such as bleach, moisturizers & abrasives. Take your jewelry off before going for a shower or a swim. Avoid hard impact activities with your jewelry on.
  2. Use a mixture of lukewarm water and mild soap to clean your gemstone with a gentle brush. Repeat the process and soak it for a longer time if still not clean. Rinse in water and wipe with a soft cloth afterwards.
  3. Store each type of jewelry separately because the harder ones may scratch the softer ones.
  4. Perform a weekly check on everyday jewelry such as rings or earrings to ensure that the center stone is tight in its place. Tap it near your ear and if you hear any rattling sound, then it’s time to get it tightened professionally.
  5. Do not use commercial jewelry cleaners or ultrasonic cleaners for your aquamarine jewelry.