Emerald comes from a mineral called Beryl and it derives its green color from the presence of chromium (sometimes vanadium) in trace proportions.
Emeralds score 8 out of 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness and are therefore quite suitable for everyday jewelry. The durability of the emerald contributes to its popularity as a favorite choice for everyday jewelry such as rings, necklaces/pendants, and earrings.
It is said that in ancient Egypt, Cleopatra used emeralds to decorate herself and her palace because these gems were sacred symbols of immortality and fertility. Emeralds were employed by Arab and Spanish medics to protect against illness and toxicity. The transparency and soothing tone of the emerald were once connected with the twelve apostles and Jesus Christ in early Christianity.
Emeralds have also long been popular in royal jewelry. In 1958, Harry Winston created the Seven Emerald Tiara for the Empress of Iran. Emeralds set in tiaras, necklaces, and other fine jewelry can be found in the royal collections of England and France. The historical significance of emerald and the associated symbolism have led to the gemstone's enduring popularity among collectors and aficionados alike.
The primary sources of emerald are Colombia, Zambia and Brazil though it is found in some other locations of the world as well. Colombian emeralds command a premium against emeralds from other origins.
Emerald is the birthstone for the May born and it is also the traditional gift for the 55th wedding anniversary.
The color intensity, clarity, and cut of an emerald are the three key characteristics that determine its quality. The weight and origin of an emerald are also important elements in determining its value. The price of an emerald, like that of any other gemstone, is directly proportional to its quality.
The color of an emerald is the most important quality criterion and it determines the price of the gemstone. The most sought after shade of green color which the emerald is known for, is blue-green and pure green. The color should be well-distributed with a high saturation level and the stone must be transparent.
The following is our color grading system for emerald:
Best color without being overly dark (80% to 90% saturation)
Shade lighter than Intense (60% to 80% saturation)
Slight oversaturation of color
Shade lighter than vivid (30% to 60% saturation)
Lightest saturation of color (5% to 30% saturation)
Clarity refers to the presence or absence of the internal or external imperfections in a gemstone. Unlike diamonds, in color gemstones there is no universal clarity grading system. We evaluate the clarity of an emerald in the following manner.
The clarity grades for emerald which we use and are common in the trade, are given hereunder.
| Grading | Description |
|---|---|
| Very Slightly Included | Very tiny inclusions may be eye visible under close inspection or when tilting the gem |
| Slightly Included | Tiny inclusions are eye visible |
| Moderately Included | Inclusions are eye visible |
| Included | Significant inclusions are eye visible |
Transparency refers to the attribute of a gemstone to let the light pass through. The more light passes through, the more transparent the stone. Everyone loves transparent gems because the colors appear vivid. The only problem with higher transparency is that the flaws in the gemstone are more visible as compared to less transparent stone.
The rough of emerald is cut in a way to obtain the desired color saturation of the emerald since the price is primarily dependent on the color. Lighter material is cut deeper to allow the gem to hold more light and increase saturation, whereas darker material is cut shallower to allow more light to pass through the stone.
Cutting a gemstone requires a high degree of skill which is mastered with years of practice and patience.
Carat (ct) is the primary unit to measure the weight of a gemstone. One carat equals one-fifth of a gram or one gram has five carats. The deep or the shallow cut of an emerald will have a bearing on its apparent size thereby making it important to consider other measurements such as length and width which are expressed in millimeters. A 7x5mm Oval can weigh 0.80cts or 1.5cts, depending on its depth and cutting style.
Emeralds are mined in many various places around the world. Gemstones of varying quality can be found in all origins. The emerald’s origin might affect its value, especially in higher quality gemstone. Even if they are mined from a rare and prestigious location, emeralds that are low in quality, will not command a significant premium price.
The following are some of the places where emeralds are mined:
| Emerald Origins | |
|---|---|
| Colombia | Colombian emeralds are considered the best quality emeralds and are known for having exceptional transparency. |
| Zambia | Produces very high quality emeralds that are known to have deep forest green color. |
| Brazil | Brazilian emeralds offer a fine deep green color but tend to have more imperfections. |
Emeralds from desirable mines such as Colombia generally command a higher price than those from other countries. As the quality improves and the size of a gemstone increases, the premium goes up. Gemstones of low, medium, and high quality are produced by all origins. For the most part, provenance should not influence a customer's decision but rather the quality of gemstone in demand.
Emeralds are treated in many ways to enhance their color and make them visually more appealing. Untreated emeralds are extremely rare and not easy to find. Most local jewelry stores sell only treated emeralds due to limited sourcing available.
| Emeralds are treated in the following ways: | |
|---|---|
| Untreated | A gemstone is cut and polished only in order to improve its appearance & durability. |
| Oiling | The traditional treatment for emeralds uses heated natural oil (such as cedar oil) to submerge the gemstone and fill the fractures within. Over time, it is common that the oil can dry out which is why it is necessary to re-oil emeralds from time to time to maintain their look. |
| Fillers | The modern treatment for emeralds uses a polymer resin which is injected into the emerald under a vacuum. Like oil, the resin fills the flaws within the emerald and can also improve its color and durability. |
A top quality treated gem will reach a maximum price point whereas an untreated gem is not restricted to such boundary due to its becoming rarer with each passing day.
A letter grading system is used by several local jewelers to educate their consumers about the quality. We've included an overall grade to help our customers understand the jeweler's grading system. It's worth noting that most jewelers don't offer untreated emeralds, therefore their AAAA grading isn't the highest.
To differentiate the heirloom quality untreated emerald, we’ve devised the AAAAA grading system. Please see the full grading scale and description as under:
| Grading | % of All Emerald | Description | |
|---|---|---|---|
|
|
AAAAA (Untreated Heirloom) | Extremely Rare | These UNTREATED EMERALDS are the rarest and highly sought out by collectors. They have rich color, slightly included to very slightly included eye clarity and exhibit nice sparkle. These gems tend to appreciate most in value over time due to rarity and high demand. |
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AAAA (Heirloom) | Top 1% | Fine quality emeralds that are typically found at higher end boutiques. They have rich color, slightly included to very slightly included eye clarity and tend to exhibit nice sparkle. These gems are typically oiled. |
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AAA (Excellent) | Top 10% | High quality emeralds that are typically found in high end stores such as on 5th Avenue. They have vivid to medium color and moderately included to slightly included eye clarity. |
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AA (Very Good) | Top 25% | Medium to light color gems that exhibit medium sparkle. They typically have included to moderately included eye clarity. These gems are usually found at medium to high end jewelers. |
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A (Good) | Top 50 to 75% | Light color gems that tend to be included. Typically found in commercial quality jewelry. |
AAAAA (Untreated Heirloom)
Extremely Rare
These UNTREATED EMERALDS are the rarest and highly sought out by collectors. They have rich color, very slightly included to eye clean clarity and exhibit nice sparkle. These gems tend to appreciate the most in value over time due to rarity & high demand.
AAAA (Heirloom)
Top 1%
Fine quality emeralds that are typically found at higher end boutiques. They have rich color, are slightly included to eye clean clarity and tend to exhibit nice sparkle. These gems are typically oiled.
AAA (Excellent)
Top 10%
High quality emeralds that are typically found in high end stores such as on 5th Avenue. They have vivid to medium color and are slightly included to very slightly included eye clarity.
AA (Very Good)
Top 25%
Medium to light color gems that exhibit medium sparkle. They typically have moderate to slightly included eye clarity. These gems are usually found at medium to high end jewelers.
A (Good)
Top 50 to 75%
Light color gems that tend to be included. Typically found in commercial quality jewelry.
Emerald is a pretty hard gemstone and doesn’t require much care. But here are a few things that you can do to keep your emerald jewelry looking new.
